World Affairs Council

So this evening, for my IR class, we went to the World Affairs Council (not really sure what it is but it sounds impressive) for a lecture by this guy, Dr. Jawad Anani, who is the former chief of the Royal Court for King Hussein and is/was the Minister of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and on and on with a very impressive resume, but was really just a funny old man who reminded me of my dad in 20 years. Anyway he gave this 20 minute lecture on Jordanian foreign policy and then opened it up to questions. His lecture was interesting - not so much for what he said but more so for what he didn't say. He told us lots of nice stuff about Jordan but skimmed over anything that might be interesting or controversial, and painted everything in a favorable light (I think that is a combination of expressions). This was especially true in answering questions. For example I asked him how Jordan defines terrorism (he had mentioned in the lecture that they define it differently than the US/Bush), and to reply he basically said it's a fluid definition and it depends on the situation but the most important thing is security. And then he started talking about Israel and Gaza, so of course I agreed with his point, but he didn't answer my question. What is that? That's not a definition. That's just secrecy. There were other questions, too, that he didn't answer and just danced around...
It was just interesting to see how governments, and I don't really have enough experience with American politicians to make similar judgments, will go to great lengths to protect themselves and not incite opposition. Like why is a state definition of terrorism such a secret? Or does it purposely not exist because it gives the state the power to judge on a case by case basis and prosecute for "terrorism" perhaps in a situation where it might not 'really' be present? Or like targeted arrests, like in Egypt under Nasser? Ah, strong police states. Love it.

Anyway so then after the lecture was over, a few of us (all girls, because girls are smarter than boys) stuck around for the weekly World Affairs Council meeting, which was literally a group of like 15 old Arab men and one woman sitting around in arm chairs drinking coffee and discussing world issues, like the economics in Dubai and the issues in Gaza (in Arabic, which is what made it cool). So we hung out and felt smart for a while, nodding along with everyone else and looking offended when Israel's wrongdoings were mentioned, feeling wise in the ways of the world and erudite in the company of Jordan's political and academic elite.

The other cool thing (this is it, I promise) was that I guess some guy from their Dead Poet's Society died the other day so at the beginning of the meeting they did this thing, like held their hands up with the fingers curled facing them (like in Havdallah when the candle is supposed to reflect off your fingernails) and then like washed their faces kind of? I don't know, it looked pretty cool because they basically did it in unison and it seemed like a nice kind of memorial ritual. I'll have to figure more out about it. Or I'll have to wait for someone else to die, God forbid.

Catching up and Tasting oil

Has it actually been a week since I last posted? Apologies...although nothing much exciting has happened so really you would have just been bored. This weekend was nice (who says that?), on Thursday night I watched a movie with Victoria and then went to the mall, because that's what cool kids do. Then Friday to Ajloun! To buy olive oil! It was very cool. We got to see the whole process from olives to oil. And no, Rachael Ray, I do not know if it was EVOO but I don't really care because it was totally LOCAL and we all know that's so much better for the world. It was also the most zaki and flavorful olive oil I've ever tasted, and also the freshest which probably had something to do with it. It was basically like a mechanic's garage but instead of cars there were big oil making machines. Check out the pictures for an out-of-order look at the process. We saw the whole thing, from bags of olives to mush to oil. Then we got to stick our fingers into the stream of hot oil to taste it, and proceeded to purchase upwards of 200 JD's worth.
Then I learned how to make مقلوبة which is probably one of my favorite dishes, so that was very exciting.

I am not excited, however, for the coming week or two. Another research paper, preparing for Open Day (basically like a big talent show thing except we have to speak Arabic), and generally winding down the semester is daunting and does not bode well for stress levels or mental health. Oh well. On the plus side I get to wear fun new sweatshirts from Abdali all the time now because the weather is getting colder.

Starbucks. It's what's for dinner.

Here's what's weird: apparently Starbucks only exists in Amman.

Don't Read (unless you want to be bored)

Blah blah blah today is Sunday, back to the grindstone of daily life...although I have more or less finished my paper that's due tomorrow, which is nice, going back to school and real life is never the greatest day of the week. Especially after such a ridiculous weekend. I think I laughed more this weekend than I ever have before - if you want to know why, look at my pictures, and you'll get some idea...
Thursday night I went to my friend's apartment for a parrrtay! which really was more like flashback to the frat house, but was fun nonetheless. Then Friday morning I went with some friends to Abdali (again...) and bought some more ridiculous and ridiculously cheap clothes, then went over to their house and ate some ridiculously huge breakfast, hung out there for the day, had a cooking lesson, ate tons of delicious food (again), then went out then home and to bed. That was all the exciting part of the weekend, yesterday was boring and normal but I did watch Camp Rock on TV which was pretty awesome.

Cool things that happened today:
You can get a falafel kbeer (big falafel) for 600 fils (.60 JD), so cheap lunch=always fun.
I almost died because this guy in a fat pickup sucked at driving. But actually that's normal for here.
Liz flipped the bird to some guys driving a truck because they waved at us while we were walking. It was fantastic.

So yeah, that's what's going on in my life, nothing super exciting.

Stay tuned, I promise something interesting and insha'allah some more pictures up tomorrow.

Seveen

or rather seven...pieces of bread that is.
As usual we went to Seveen to get lunch and I got humus and fuul and chubuz, and I paid for only two chubuz (that means bread). So the guys were giving me my stuff on the tray and they threw on this whole stack of 5 chubuz and I was like, no I was two chubuz. And they were like take it! And I was like, no, I don't want this, I want two chubuz! But then they were telling me to take it and I was like, whatever, I'll just eat 5 chubuz, which of course I didn't I only ate two and a half and then took two with me. So, basically, the point of this story is that there really is not point, it's just a mildly funny thing that happened to me today.

That's the Middle East for you...

It's crazy that stuff like this goes on all the time, so close to here, and yet life goes on as usual. I guess that's how it is here. But it's weird to think I can be having a great day, and a few (or more like a few hundred) kilometers away, people are shooting each other.

Driving, Driving in Your Car

So Farah (my sister) had a driving lesson this morning and I got to go along! Actually it kind of sucked because we had to get up at 6:15, but I got a free ride to school which was sweet. It's funny to listen to someone learn how to drive in another language, and now I know how to say things like, shift to second gear, or easy on the clutch, in Arabic. All I have to say is, I am so glad I didn't learn how to drive on these hills and it's a good thing they don't get snow like we do.

But I miss driving :-(

Salt of This Sea

Last night I went to the closing night of Palestinian Film Week, for the film "Salt of This Sea." How do I describe this experience? The venue was amazing - beautiful theater - but it was more than that. When the film began a whole group of guys sitting behind me started singing along and clapping to the opening song which got the rest of the audience into it and we were all clapping. That's what I realized this isn't just a bunch of people watching a movie, it's like all these people in one place connected by this bond and shared experience and they're all there to experience this depiction of the suffering together. That doesn't even make sense and it's probably corny or a cliche but it really felt like that - like they are Palestinian and they are there to watch a Palestinian film about Palestine because somehow they all love Palestine, or being Palestinian, or whatever.




It's hard to explain the actual film - the basic plot is a Palestinian American from Brooklyn who goes to Ramallah (even though her family is from Yaffa) to find her grandfather's money which is her inheritance and to take her "right of return." She goes from Ramallah into Israel (illegally) and the film follows her personal journey until she gets deported back to the States for overstaying her visa. Of course, the Israeli army is painted as the unjust villain, and the only portrayals of Israeli civilians are as settlers, Zionists, or pacifists. Aside from the fact that I thought the main character was a little bit crazy, I found it to be a really hard movie to watch. Who do I empathize with? Both sides? Neither? What about people here, is that a usual Palestinian sentiment? Why do I always feel guilty when I see things like this? Am I perceived as one of these stereotypes? It's such a complicated experience being so close to everything, in the middle of it all. I mean obviously I am not Israeli, but trying to stay connected to my religion and disconnected from Israel is hard. I have mixed feelings and it's hard to completely validate both sides at the same time.

But confusion and angst aside, it was a pretty good movie, even though the main character was way too skinny and not even that pretty. Although stereotypes abounded, it seemed like a fairly realistic portrayal of the circumstance and touched on a variety of political and social issues. Definitely recommended if you get the chance.

Where to start?

Maybe with my second foray into East Amman, and the smiling lady at the bread shop where they cook it in the Iranian style, by throwing a round of dough onto the inside of a large open kiln and then pull it out and hand it to you fresh. Or maybe with the guys I saw dragging a full grown sheep across the sidewalk, still kicking. Or maybe with the fact that I spend an hour yesterday smashing raw meat through my hands, and then another hour stuffing my face with zaki kebabs and chubuz and basal and all sorts of other goodness. Or maybe with just the fact that the more I see of Jordan and Amman the more I want to stay. That everyone here is so nice and wants you to be here and see Jordan as they see Jordan. Like if you say your favorite thing in Jordan is the desert, the response is a smile that lights up the room. I have felt happier in the last few weeks than I have in recent memory - I won't tell you it's any kind of supreme bliss, but I have definitely been feeling a certain joy and excitement in life that has I think been shway lacking...

Clarification...

Just to clarify, I am of course very excited that Obama won although it is very unreal. I was only expressing sentiments that seem to be prevalent here (and, from what I hear, in the states) - that it is a great thing that Obama won but I guess I still have the sense that there is a lot of "underground" racism in the US and throughout the world. My host dad told me that there have been several assassination plots against Obama that have been foiled by the FBI. There is a palpable sense of optimism tempered with cynicism here, that Obama's election is a great thing and an incredible step for America, but I have also heard on more than one occasion that there is too much work to do and Obama won't be able to do it, that the messes are too big...although it seems to be unanimous that Obama was the better choice. The main topic of all conversation here - even between Jordanians - is the elections, and what this will mean for the entire world. Everyone understands that this election is probably the biggest thing to come our way in this lifetime, although it always seems to go along with comments about how happy Oprah was. I don't really get the obsession with Oprah here, but hey, what can you do. Anyway I don't want this to become a forum for seriousness and cynicism, it was only a comment made in passing but not a comment only I have made.
Props to Kenya for having a national holiday, too.

And now i might go cry a little bit, mom.

Hussein

That is, Barack Hussein Obama...

I woke up this morning to the sounds of the TV - quite odd for a school morning. So since I wanted to go back to sleep I went to close the door but was instead greeted by everyone gathered around the television and a rousing chorus of "the elections! Obama won!" To which I dazedly replied that polls only closed an hour ago (this is a disclaimer for any possible bad time zone math, I'm sorry, I was tired) and how could they possibly know already? But it seems as though they really do know and people are celebrating and all that jazz so I was happy. Then of course I realized that he'll probably be assassinated soon (God forbid) so we'll probably just be back where we started. But it'll be great while it lasts, insha'allah.

TAG, you're it.

So I am now a member of TAG ... which is basically this sweet place (I won't tell you where...) where they have FREE wireless, computers, comfortable chairs, meeting rooms, and food (which I don't think is free). This is their mission statement: "To support the Arab youth community in building their professional capacities, reshaping their skills, and upgrading their qualifications through a state of the art information technology tools and customized knowledge facilities in order to ensure opportunity equality with their international peers." I will revise it. "To support Americans abroad in maintaining their sanity, reinforcing their typing skills, and upgrading their blog posts through wireless internet and Windows Vista in order to ensure connectivity and communication with everyone at home." The only problem is their plugs don't fit my plug so I have to find one of those 2 to 3 prong converter thingies. Ah well, the joys of Jordan.