Food. Finally!

I learned (by watching) how to make my first dish – although I don’t know the details. I did learn a bunch of important vocab, however. Like cardamom (hill) and almonds (louz), both of which are integral components of ouzi, currently my favorite, maybe second favorite, Jordanian dish. Picture a huge mound of rice and shi’iriyyah (short noodley things), topped generously with ground meat sautéed with onions, garlic, and peas (and something like pounds of cardamom), then that topped with chicken cooked in cardamom, and all that topped with just a few handfuls sprinkling of toasted shelled almonds. Zaki kateer jiddan! Serve with a side of salata (guess) – cucumbers (khayaar), tomatoes (bandura), parsley (ba’adunis), salt (malaH), lemon (limon), and oil (zayt) – and I challenge you to find me a better meal anywhere.

Oh, and I forgot that iftaar always begins with dates (tamar) and soup. Now that’s a challenge.

Turkish Bath. Part One.

Walking into Al Pasha Turkish Bath you see a tiled fountain and a spacious room filled with couches and coffee tables covered in the latest Jordanian fashion magazines. Waiting for my friends I was offered my choice of juice, tea, or coffee and my tea came ready for me to sweeten it just the way I like.
We were led first into the changing room to put on our bathing suits, and from there into the showers. After a quick rinse we began our treatment in the steam room. Through an unassuming arch in the wall and a white curtain, through a sort of vestibule, up four steps into a small stone room lined with stone benches, with small circular colored holes in the ceiling for light and filled with a thick, overbearing steam smelling of something like jasmine or sandalwood. Couldn’t breath at first, but it got easier, especially when relieved by the cool slushy-type juice we were brought. After we sweated out our toxins we were led to the hot tub where we soaked for a good fifteen to twenty minutes while waiting for our exfoliating scrubs. Once atop the marble “scrubbing tables” we were instructed to remove our tops and subjected to a rough – though incredibly effective – scrub down with soap and exfoliating pads. I’m pretty sure they removed skin from places I didn’t know I had. We were all encouraged (independently) by our scrubbing technicians to observe the amount of brown-gray skin gook they had removed and left sitting on our skin before being rinsed off. After the scrub came another hot tub soak in anticipation of the (warm/hot oil) massage. Ahh, the massage, the be-all-end-all of the spa experience. The masseuse began on the shins and the feet (ow and tickle), and proceeded to find all the knots and tight places I could possibly have had. My thighs – front and back – were punched, my back smacked, and my hair pulled. All in a good way – it was incredible and incredibly relaxing. After our massages we returned to the hot tub for a post-treatment soak and from there to the showers where my hair was smoother than I think it has ever been, thanks to the massage oil.
We made grand plans during our numerous soaks to return frequently to the baths. After all, who can say no to that ambience – arches, stucco, tile, low light, humidity, and topless bikini-clad women (men have their own hours, sorry boys) – or to the general sense of relaxation that followed. Don’t worry, we will return – post-midterms, post-finals, and pre-departure. And whenever else my (rapidly slimming) wallet will allow.

Nearing the end...

It's almost the end of Ramadan and I have yet to get any awesome recipes. I really need to get on that... Mansaf itself is basically worth the trip to Jordan, and I really want to be able to cook all of this stuff when I get home. Then, of course, you all will benefit, too.

Life is frustrating...

It's so hard dealing with this language barrier. I feel guilty when I speak English but my functional ('amiya) is just not very good. Dilemma! Starting to speak more (English) at home though, I just want to try to get involved in general... The weather is finally getting cooler now, actually had to wear a sweatshirt thing when outside this evening.

Iftaar Rocks My Socks

Definitely some of the best food I've eaten and some of the craziest iftaars I've experienced. Thursday night iftaar in Irbid with the host family's extended family. I ate sheep tongue AND sheep eyeball. Gross, but actually, the eye socket was pretty decent. I wish I had a picture of the ouzi, though, because it was a sight. A huge mound of rice with almonds, meat, lamb, and the crown jewel, the SHEEP'S HEAD. Ahh, Jordan.

Halfway, almost

...through Ramadan. Spent the weekend in Irbid with my host family's extended family, which was overwhelming and interesting. Kind of like my family, only in Arabic, so now I know what it's like for guests at Farber family events. Coolest moment of the weekend was when I was doing some yoga (everyone needs a little me time) and for about 20 minutes during my sun salutations I could hear the call to prayer. Not to sound cliche, but it made the yoga almost spiritual and even more calming. It was a rough day, not being able to communicate well with everyone, and that reminded me why I am here, and that that wouldn't happen anywhere else in the world. It totally reaffirmed the reasons I came and made me really want to figure things out. The words will come, I just have to give it time...

Jordan...

…so it’s now been just about two weeks. Just enough time to deal with King Hussein’s revenge, jet lag, airport customs detaining my laptop, and the first week of Ramadan. Whew. Classes start tomorrow and I feel like we’ll be getting into a rhythm, which will be good – although the lack of food during the week will be draining, I expect. Nevertheless it’s exciting and I’m looking forward to getting my Arabic up to par and, hopefully, some kind of internship or volunteer position. I am also hoping for an opportunity to make some Jordanian friends although I’m not sure when or where that will happen as we do kind of have a CIEE bubble. And my fake engagement ring might actually serve its purpose and keep the prowlers at bay. Or creepy taxi drivers. And men in general, which really is the point. Ah, Jordan.

Ramadan, Part Two: Ahh, Saving Grace

Thank God (or Allah?) for Books@Café. It is the American/British ex-pat haven and is the only place I have yet found who both sells, serves, and permits consumption of food and beverage on its premises. Not only that, but it’s darn good, too. From Friday breakfast (a 7.5 JD prix-fixe meal that feeds three) and Saturday lunch (a traditional Jordanian offering) to the super-thin crust pizzas, Green Mountain (New England, baby!) coffee, and juices (when in Jordan, do as the Jordanians do and get a Lemon with Mint), anything and everything here is worth the price.

Especially the free wireless. And the bookstore downstairs. But mostly the free wireless. And the outdoor patio, and two bars (with alcohol. Duh. Ex-pats.). But, obviously, I really just came for the wireless. And the food, because Ramadan makes you hungry.

Ramadan, Part One; End of the First Week

I’ve now done a week of iftaars, a week of fasting (…or not), and a week of not getting up for suhuur in the morning. Seriously, 4:30 am? I don’t think so. Although I will have to do it at some point; I told my host sister to surprise me one time by waking me up for it, so we’ll see when that happens.

Ramadan in Jordan is tough. Not going to lie, I’m not that good at fasting, and when it’s pushing 40 C and sunny, not drinking water is just not happening. Finding food and beverage for sale is difficult, and a place to consume said contraband even more so. It’s been a week of sneaking into corners, elevators, empty rooms, and dark alley ways for a mere sip or snack.

That said, iftaar kind of makes up for all the difficulties. Begin with three dates, then some soup, then a generous portion of a main course, followed by some sort of dessert and, of course, tea. But that’s just the beginning. A couple hours after iftaar, you get hungry again and go in search of fruit, leftovers, or even better, a cocktail from Lubnani Snack (think smoothie or fruit juice, no alcohol involved). Sleep a few hours, wake up before dawn, eat, sleep more, watch TV, then do it all again. That, in a nut shell, is Ramadan.